Partying in Pervomaisk (Pervomaysk)

Hi there, Yuri here. Decided to join in on the blog. With this entry, I'd like to tell you about our stay in Pervomaisk. (As always, I uploaded the photos and wrote the captions - Lev)

No matter how you spell it in English Pervomaisk, or Pervomaysk, is still the same central Ukrainian city. It is unusual because it was closed to the public for all of the Cold War, as it was one of the key strategic missile sites of the former Soviet Union. It is also the home town of the late husband of my cousin Halya, who is the daughter of one of my mother’s sister. Yes, my mother has a big family: eight brothers and sisters! The only reason Halya would have moved to Pervomaisk from her family village near Krasnosilka was marriage.

Marla, Lev and I arrived in Pervomaisk in the late afternoon at the Erik Schuller Hotel. 

You know it's a good hotel when all it says is 'Hotel' on the sign.

This former Radians'kyi hotel (the Ukrainian word for Soviet is Radians’kyi) is located at No. 1 Pioneer Square beside the Memorial Square to the Great Patriotic War, 1941-45. (Political Aside: Huh, I guess 1939 to 1941 doesn't count as being part of World War II.)  

Lenin, seen here standing in Memorial Square, is upset as he has not been mentioned in the blog before now

The lobby of the hotel dates back to its grim Radians’ky origins with a battered terrazzo floor and a reception desk behind a glass barrier. 

 

Yes, that is real ivy. And yes, it was one of the few things thriving in this building.

 We carried our luggage up three flights of stairs to our room since there is no elevator. (Political Aside: Obviously the 'Radians’kyi Cholovik' (Soviet Man) was much healthier than we Canadians.) We definitely need to learn to travel lighter, a lot lighter!! Our room had three single beds with an interesting choice of bed linens – a mattress sheet, a large towel-like blanket and a bedspread. However, thankfully it was clean and there was air conditioning and hot water.

Good for sleeping...and the beach!

Supper at the nearby restaurant Sofia was especially interesting.  Although the food was OK at best, the entertainment was great – a 5 year-old's birthday party with a clown! Fun was had by one and all, especially when the DJ started the dance music for the parents, who seemed to leave en masse every now and then (without their children) for a cigarette break outside the restaurant.

It is my personal belief that those 'candles' were actually road flares.

Back at the hotel I gave my cousin a call to let her know we were in town saying that we would see the family the next day.  NO WAY!  My cousin’s daughter, Sveta, and her husband, Volodia, came by within the half  hour to whisk me over to their home for a feast and an interesting home brew made from grapes known as samohonka, (it's very reminiscent of the Italian grappa). 

As I was not provided a picture for that evening, here is a picture of the family bunny in their garden.

The next day, we all were driven to their house where we were joined by Inna, Volodia and Sveta's daughter. We all had a samohonka-fueled feast loosely based on the North American idea of breakfast. Funny enough, when we said we weren’t used to eating so much or drinking for breakfast, they said they weren't either! But this was a celebration! They graciously offered us a place to lie down afterwards if we needed to. 

This is only half of the table. Seriously.

Then it was off to the Museum of Strategic Missile Troops, which was 35 kilometres outside of town. Situated in the wide open fields, the base and the town had been a secret to the outside world until only twenty years ago.

Literally, one of Ukraine's best-kept secrets in terms of museums and secret military installations

Volodia had arranged for a three hour tour of the facilities. There we saw many of the vehicles used to launch the missiles including many of the nuclear missiles themselves.

Unfortunately, somebody let this yahoo on to the grounds.

This is the face of grim determination when confronted with nuclear war.

On top of that, we got to go 40 meters below the surface to where the actual missile launch command post was located. Pretty incredible! We also viewed the missile silo from above ground, but since the missiles were all dissembled thanks to the end of the Cold War, only the top part remains.

 

We apologize to the former-state of Rhode Island for the nuke we may or may not have launched at them.

 Then it was back to the house for another feast – just as you think there is no more...another course appears. Saying no was just not accepted. Sveta took two days off work in order to do all the baking and cooking to prepare for our arrival. As an interlude during the meal, we had a chance to view their extensive vegetable garden around the house, take photos, and get to know everyone better.   

Did you know: In Ukrainian, strawberries are known as "No, please. I've had way too much to eat already!"

At this time my godson Yuri also came over, after arriving at 4 AM from Kyiv in order to meet his godfather for the first time.

A lovely photo of Yuri (left) and Yuri (right).

We were then driven back to our hotel in order to view the graduation ceremonies for all graduating high school classes from Pervomaisk. It took place in the square in front of our hotel and included performances, special awards, and students dancing with each other and their teachers.

This was the start of a new trend known as "street prom".

Afterwards, Lev joined Inna and her friends for drinks, and Marla and I went with Sveta and Volodia for a walk through the busy but very dark park by the river. (Political aside: It was dark because the city said there was not enough money for lighting. But where do all the tax dollars go?)

It went for fireworks!! WHIZZ! POP! BANG! Totally worth it.

Next morning it was back to the feast, and the “samohon”. Volodia, who had not had an alcoholic drink the whole time we were in Pervomaisk due to the zero tolerance for drinking and driving in Ukraine, tied our three large suitcases to the roof of his Moskvitch for the trip to Odesa. 

The joy on Volodia's face is palpable

Although the car’s small motor struggled up some of the steeper hills on the road, we arrived safe and sound in Odessa.  We found out that for Volodia and Sveta this was the first time they had ever been in Odessa. Unfortunately, they left immediately to return home. We were sorry to learn later that it had taken them more than 5 hours to get home through constant rain; on the way down it was a beautiful day with great billowing white clouds scattered across the prairie sky.

Home, home on the steppe

They, and the rest of the family, were very generous and welcoming and we were sorry to say goodbye.